Three years ago I reviewed the Argentinian Malbec I'm drinking tonight.
At the time Wine Spectator popped for a well-deserved 90 for the 2003 Terrazas Reserva Malbec and, really, all that's changed in three years is that the wine has gotten less fumey* and more better. That's grade school terminology for patience: laying down the wine pays off in the glass. IOW, keep it around for a while and it just gets better.
The wine remains earthy, intense, and full-bodied with black fruit. It has good depth and balance with enough Syrah-like pepper on the back side to keep it interesting. It's an excellent wine and will be delighted to hang in your cellar for another five to ten years.
Enjoy it now with mesquite grilled New York steak, some good conversation, and a little Stan Getz. Dessert? Optional.
You too will be sorry when it's gone.
The Wine Commonsewer
*fumey refers to the smell of raw alcohol (fumes) on the nose (when one swirls and smells the wine or first tips the glass to sip), as in rubbing alcohol or cheap vodka. Fumey isn't entirely or always unpleasant but it tends to get in the way of the pleasant aroma of red wine. The condition tends to fade with cellar time and/or a little breathing. In this case, the cellar time has been three years and the difference is apparent.
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